To begin with, the launch of CS4 is estimated to be around the time of Adobe Max, which takes place November 16th-19th. Adobe Creative Suite product cycles are 18 months and since Adobe CS3 was released on April 16th, 2007 Adobe Max would mean 19 months since the last product release. Below are some features that may or may not be included in Adobe CS4.
Adobe Photoshop CS4: Codename: Adobe Stonehenge CS4 Extended. Stonehenge is the splash screen. 1. The User-Interface is similar to CS3 however there are some minor polishes 2. Support for "Extensions" is listed under the "Window" menu 3. The extension manager is in every CS4 application 3. "Kuler" which is an Intranet color pallet collaboration tool for sharing color swatches with others on your team. 4. Support for Flash (more on this later)
Adobe Panel Configurator 1.0 (Alpha Version): 1. Allows you to create your own Photoshop toolboxes. 2. You can choose from over 860+ commands, tools and application features and from there create your own toolboxes that work in any CS4 application 3. Supports Actions and Scripts 4. Drag and drop text fields into toolboxes 5. Support for SWF and Quicktime video files in toolboxes 6. You can export the toolbar file and re-open it in any CS4 application.
CS4 Suite New Features: 1. Flash SWF support across all applications 2. You can play SWF files in any app 3. A tool is being developed for creating flash content without any coding experience
Adobe Bridge CS4: 1. New User-Interface 2. Sidebar and search tool location similar to Mac OS Leopard 3. Navigation in folders similar to Windows Vista Explorer 4. Labels and star ratings are easier to access. 5. Filtered searches are now much faster even across thousands of images 6. List View in Bridge 7. Auto Photo Downloader to download photos from your camera is now easier and better than Bridge CS3 8. Improved slideshows using your spacebar 9. From Slideshow, press "r" and Adobe Camera Raw opens automatically. 10. Review Mode: (full screen review of photos) a. Just like a full screen version of Apple coverflow b. Loopt tool built in c. The ability to open all, review, and drop photos out of view that you don't want and others stay full screen d. When leaving review mode the photos you kept are now selected in bridge. Ones you dropped are still there but not selected. e. You now have the ability to create photo-collections from within review mode 11. Collections are just like Playlists in iTunes. You have the ability to group photos. The location where photos are stored is not changed. 12. More sharing options a. Upload directly to FTP within Bridge b. Web gallery templates are easy and use the same templates available in Lightroom 2 c. Ability to create flash galleries with a few clicks and upload instantly d. Uses the Opera engine to render galleries within Bridge e. Photoshop Web Gallery is going away and being replaced by Bridge Web Gallery 13. Bridge CS4 Menus (in order left to right) File - Edit - View - Sttacks - Label - Tools - Window - Help. Adobe CS4 Applications are exactly the same as CS3 but the text in the icons is black instead of white.
Some cameras have a dedicated black-and-white mode, but even if yours doesn't, you can still work in black and white. In fact, it often works better to shoot in color and convert later on. Photoshop offers a breathtaking array of techniques for converting color to black and white (or more correctly, grayscale), and these enable you to control the process with a degree of finesse that would be difficult to match in the field.
This shot was taken early one winter's morning in New York. The sky had a dramatic quality and there was a fine haze rising to meet the colder air at higher altitudes. The image works well in color, but it also has potential for a striking black-and-white impression of the city.
The most obvious way of converting color to black and white is to convert the mode to grayscale (Image > Mode > Grayscale). This is okay, but there are better alternatives.
The first is desaturation -- removing the visible color information but maintaining the RGB status of the file. This means that if you wanted to add a tint later you could do so without having to change color mode again.
Go to Image > Adjustments > Desaturate (or press Ctrl/Cmd + Shift + U).
The problem with desaturation is that it often delivers a flat, uninspiring rendition. We can improve this, however. Analyzing the photo, we need to strengthen the texture in the sky by darkening the shadows and midtones, but the buildings below need a general increase in contrast to remove the haziness. It's best to treat the sky and the buildings as separate entities. Make a feathered selection of the sky, using the natural division of the rising dark haze as a guide.
Press Ctrl/Cmd + J to copy and paste the selection to a new layer, and rename it "sky."
Add a Levels Adjustment Layer to it, making sure the two layers are combined as a clipping mask.
To bring out the sky texture, drag the Black and Gray point markers to the right as shown.
We could use a Levels adjustment layer to add contrast to the buildings, but there is an alternative route.
Go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves to add a Curves adjustment layer to the background layer.
Applying the curve shown increases midtone contrast, at slight expense to the highlights and shadows. This diminishes the haziness in the area of the buildings.
You can add some effect according to your wants..
Good Luck!!
After seeing several of the Mmmmotion contests, I think most of the mistakes have to do with incorrect subject focus or just plain "overdoing it." I tried to address both issues here. Hope some of you find this useful...
- Step 2 :
Instead, consider how things would look if you were actually taking a picture. You would set either the car (foreground) or the road and trees (background) as the focal point of the image.
Step 3:
Step 4:
Using the polygonal lasso tool, crop out your car from the background. Cut and paste the cropped car into a new layer so that only the background remains. Since a true moving object appears semi-transparent around the edges, we will need to clone in some of the edges where we cut the car out.
Step 5:
Select your cloning tool and set the opacity to about 75%. Begin carefully cloning in the egdes so that you have a smaller exposed (cleared) area with somewhat fuzzy edges. Our last step is to select the car shape we originally cut out and use the motion blur tool to set it in motion.
Make sure the direction of the blur is consistent with the direction the car is actually traveling in. Be cautious not to overdo things here... your car is not traveling at light speed! A setting of 15-20 pixels will probably be enough
That should get you started with a laterally moving object.
Our work have done
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I would like to share my knowledge in modifying some photos, or some special effect.
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